Filaments & Materials: picking the right plastic for the job
PLA prints at 190 to 220°C and shrinks almost nothing on cooling, while ABS needs 230 to 250°C plus an enclosure to fight warping — using PLA settings on ABS is one of the most common first-print failures. This hub covers filament types (PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, nylon, carbon-fiber-reinforced), proper drying and storage, and troubleshooting stringing or poor layer adhesion. The filament comparison database and cost calculator help pick a material and brand before buying a full spool.
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All guides on Filaments & Materials
Polycarbonate Filament Guide: The Strongest You Can Print
Polycarbonate is the toughest filament available for desktop 3D printing, but it demands respect. Here's the engineering breakdown of printing PC successfully.
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3D Printing for Cosplay: Materials, Tips, and Finishing
3D printing has revolutionized cosplay prop and armor creation. From material selection to sanding and painting, here’s how to turn raw filament into convention-ready costume pieces.
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Recycled Filament: Can Eco-Friendly 3D Printing Actually Work?
Recycled PLA and PETG filaments promise to reduce plastic waste while you print. But do they match virgin filament on quality? Here's what the real-world tests show.
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PETG vs ABS vs ASA: Functional Filament Showdown
PLA won't cut it for every project. When you need heat resistance, UV stability, or impact strength, PETG, ABS, and ASA are the three main contenders. Here is how they compare — with real test data.
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How to Print TPU Flexible Filament Without Losing Your Mind
TPU opens up phone cases, gaskets, and wearable prints — but it fights you every step of the way if your settings are wrong. Here's how to tame flexible filament on any FDM printer.
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Carbon Fiber Filament: What You Need to Know Before Printing
Carbon fiber filament sounds like a cheat code for strength. The reality is more nuanced — here's what CF-reinforced filament actually does, which types exist, and how to print it without destroying your nozzle.
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How to Dry Filament: Methods, Temperatures, and When It Actually Matters
A quick data-driven guide to filament drying: which materials need it, what temperatures to use, and whether a filament dryer is worth buying.
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Nylon Filament: The Engineer’s Guide to Printing Strong Parts
Nylon offers unmatched toughness and wear resistance for functional 3D prints, but it’s notoriously difficult to print well. This guide covers drying, enclosure requirements, bed adhesion tricks, and the best nylon filament brands for FDM.
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Nylon Filament Guide: Properties, Settings, and Best Uses
Nylon is the toughest filament you can run on a standard FDM printer—but it’s also the most demanding to print. Here’s the engineering guide to nylon types, settings, and when it’s worth the effort.
Read guide →ASA Filament Guide: The Best Material for Outdoor 3D Prints
ASA handles UV, rain, and heat better than any other common FDM filament. Here’s how to print it successfully, including enclosure requirements, settings, and real-world durability data.
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How to Store Filament Properly (and Fix Moisture Damage)
Moisture is the silent killer of good prints. Here's exactly how to store your filament, spot wet spools, and dry them back to factory condition.
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Best PETG Filament Brands Compared in 2026
Five popular PETG brands compared on diameter tolerance, print quality and price. Here is how Hatchbox, eSun, Overture, Polymaker and Prusament line up.
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PLA vs PETG: When to Use Each Filament
PLA and PETG cover 90% of 3D printing needs, but they behave completely differently. Here's a direct comparison with real temperatures, costs, and use cases to help you pick the right one.
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How Much Does 3D Printing Actually Cost? Breaking Down the Numbers
Filament, electricity, wear parts, failed prints — the real cost of 3D printing is more than the price on the spool. Here's how to calculate what each print actually costs you.
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Best PLA Filament 2026: 8 Brands Ranked by Tolerance, Price and Print Quality
Eight PLA filament brands ranked by diameter tolerance, color accuracy, spool quality and price. Bambu Lab and Prusament lead; Overture is the best value. Data-driven rankings for 2026.
Read guide →New guides on Filaments & Materials are added regularly and appear here automatically as soon as they go live.
Frequently asked questions
PLA or PETG — which should a beginner start with?
PLA is easier to print (lower temperature, minimal warping, no enclosure needed) and is the better starting material, but PETG handles heat and impact noticeably better for functional parts. Most people learn on PLA first, then move specific functional prints to PETG once comfortable.
How do I know if my filament needs drying?
Popping or hissing sounds during printing, along with visible steam or a rough, bubbly surface finish, are the clearest signs of moisture-absorbed filament — nylon and PETG absorb moisture fastest, PLA slowest. A filament dryer or an oven on its lowest setting for a few hours typically resolves it.
What causes stringing between parts of a print?
Stringing happens when filament oozes from the nozzle while traveling between print locations, usually from retraction settings that are too weak or a nozzle temperature that's too high for the filament. Drying the filament also resolves stringing caused by moisture, which is often mistaken for a retraction problem.
Is carbon-fiber-filled filament worth using for strength?
Carbon-fiber-filled filaments are stiffer, not necessarily stronger under impact, and are significantly more abrasive on nozzles, requiring a hardened steel nozzle to avoid rapid wear. They're best suited to parts needing rigidity (drone frames, jigs) rather than parts that need to flex or absorb shock.
Why does my ABS keep warping and lifting off the bed?
ABS shrinks noticeably more than PLA as it cools, and without an enclosure to maintain even ambient heat, the outer edges cool and contract faster than the center, lifting corners off the bed. A heated enclosure, heated bed at 100 to 110°C, and a brim or raft usually solve it together.
How long does an opened spool of filament last before it degrades?
PLA in reasonable humidity can last many months opened without major issues; nylon and PETG can start absorbing enough moisture to affect print quality within just a few weeks in humid climates. Storing opened spools in a sealed container with desiccant extends this significantly for any material.